iPhone X Teardown! – Screen and Battery Replacement shown in 5 minutes

It’s time to tear down the iPhone X. This video will show the basic screen replacement,
along with how I swap out the uniquely shaped battery inside of Apple’s newest flagship. Accidents happen, and things wear out and
break. So it’s good to know to how get things back
up and running. Let’s get started. [Intro] Getting into this phone is pretty similar
to the iPhone 7 and iPhone 8, but it does get a bit easier once you are inside. The same familiar two pentalobe screws are
at the bottom of the phone. I’ll have a little tool kit linked in the
video description for you, along with all the parts needed to complete these replacements. After getting these two screws out, I like
to warm up the screen a little by softening the ip67 water-resistant adhesive under the
iPhone 10 display. I’ll use a suction cup and a pry tool to lift
up on the glass a little and get my metal pry tool between the plastic edge of the screen
and the metal edge of the frame. Then I can slice along the edge of the phone,
just underneath the glass, to detach the rest of the adhesive. When the screen is mostly free, it doesn’t
pull down this time to unlock, but instead just folds right open like a book. The ribbons you see on the right side of the
phone are extremely fragile, so don’t put any pressure on them. Apple did simplify the process with only one
metal bracket this time, which is nice of them. Still using the same y triple zero screws
as previous iPhones. I’ll remove the 5 screws holding that metal
plate down and then keep them organized off to the side because they definitely need to
go back in the same hole they came out of. It was also nice of Apple to put all the connectors
in one solitary row for us here in the center. The connectors we care about during this video
are first, the battery connector. Making sure to use a plastic pry tool when
lifting this off as to not short out the battery. Then we can detach the two screen ribbons,
one at the bottom right, and the other at the bottom left side of the connector row. And the last guy is for the earpiece and microphone. This also detaches like a little Lego from
the motherboard. And here is the screen. Quite a bit simpler design now that we don’t
have the fingerprint scanner at the bottom. These OLED displays are definitely going to
be more expensive than the LCD iPhone screens of the past just because the part itself costs
a lot more. I’ll have the current pricing in the description
like always. It does fluctuate with time and will get cheaper
as the phone gets older. The new screens will probably not come with
the earpiece attached, so there are 3 more screws when you transfer over. I’ll pull these out, being careful to keep
track of the little gold niblet on the top screw. Then I can fold the speaker down and away,
allowing me to pull up the microphone and the other small sensors. These ribbons are extremely fragile, so go
slow and be careful. Now that I have the speaker out, it really
does depend on how the new screens ship, but you might also need to transfer over some
of the clear plastics, but that’s not too big of a deal. Historically, Apple has not made things easy
for people trying to fix their own phones. With the old error 51 and fingerprint scanner
hardware issues, they’ve made things pretty complicated. But with this screen we shouldn’t have any
issues. All of the phone’s face unlocking hardware
is still tied to the phone and not a part of the display, so thumbs up for that. With only the display and digitizer connectors
left on the screen, we should be safe. I’ll put the screen back together before jumping
onto the battery replacement portion of this video. It’s pretty straightforward with all of the
sensors going in the same slots they came out of and then the earpiece speaker folding
over back on top of them. There’s the three y triple zero screws holding
everything in place. Make sure to get that gold niblet back on
that center screw. I’m not sure exactly what it does, but it’s
probably important. Remember, the display is one of the most expensive
parts of this phone, so be nice to it. Now let’s take a shot at removing the oddly
shaped battery. Since the screen is already off and the battery
disconnected, I’ll grab the first magical pull tab at the top of the battery and slowly
pull it out from underneath. These are very fragile, so go slow, plus that
sound is delicious. At the bottom of the battery there are 3 more
stubby pull tabs. These are hard to get at, but if you have
a pair of wide tip tweezers, that would be ideal. With my needle tips I’ll just grab the edge
and then pull it out as best I can with my fingers. If you do fail at pulling out the magical
pull tabs, you’ll have to commence the Pry of Shame. Another trick that might help out is to grab
the tweezers and twist the pull tab around the tip of the tweezers to get a better grip. And now the battery is out and this is the
most unique battery I’ve ever seen inside of a cellphone. Kind of interesting design choice. Hopefully the replacements aren’t too expensive. Like always, I’ll have them linked in the
video description. Below the battery we can see the wireless
charging and the metal frame of the phone. If you’re replacing your own battery, you’ll
want to use some double sided tape to keep things from jiggling around. Personally, I’m going to be opening this phone
up more in the future, so I’m skipping my adhesive for now. With the battery in place and the 3 ribbons
coming from the screen I’ll reattach to that center connector bridge, I can finally plug
in the battery. It goes in last just to be safe. I’ll test the phone out before adding that
metal plate just to make sure everything is working. If there are lines going through your display,
or it’s gray, or nothing shows up, it might just be a bad connection. Re-seat those little Lego connectors and try
again. My phone is turned back off and the metal
plate slides into place with it’s five screws. All of these are different sizes so they need
to go back in the same hole they came from. Finally the phone can fold shut just like
a little book and clip down into place. And everything is still working. I’ll toss the bottom two pentalobe screws
back in and it’s ready to go. If you enjoyed this video, or if it helped
you out, hit that subscribe button and come hang out with me on Twitter and Instagram. Let me know in the comments if you have any
questions. And thanks a ton for watching. I’ll see you around.

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